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New England Met Winter 2022-2023 Banter


HoarfrostHubb
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19 hours ago, Ginx snewx said:

Every Chevy truck I have had I have gotten near or over 100k miles from the factory on original tires.

GM front ends don't eat them until you start making crazy lift modifications. I currently have a 2011 Sierra with 132k and I am looking for new tires sooner rather than later. According to the receipts, these Michelins were put on at 38k miles when the previous owner installed a leveling kit. They are finally getting down on tread, but still no dry-cracks. The previous owner must have been a nut about caring for it. My wife's GMC Acadia had factory tires until 112k when she found some leftover metal construction debris in the road and blew two out.

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13 minutes ago, PowderBeard said:

GM front ends don't eat them until you start making crazy lift modifications. I currently have a 2011 Sierra with 132k and I am looking for new tires sooner rather than later. According to the receipts, these Michelins were put on at 38k miles when the previous owner installed a leveling kit. They are finally getting down on tread, but still no dry-cracks. The previous owner must have been a nut about caring for it. My wife's GMC Acadia had factory tires until 112k when she found some leftover metal construction debris in the road and blew two out.

We Chevy

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53 minutes ago, Ginx snewx said:

We Chevy

Yeah, all that crap about IFS was just that. A friend has plowed with two Chevy 2500s both to over 100K doing nearly 50 residential driveway using a Fischer 9 foot V plow. Never had to touch front ends on either. Personally I've had the best luck with my 2014 Ram Power Wagon. Over 200k with only general maintenance. And with the electric lockers, it's the best winter weenie vehicle for those like me that love driving during winter storms

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1 minute ago, UnitedWx said:

Yeah, all that crap about IFS was just that. A friend has plowed with two Chevy 2500s both to over 100K doing nearly 50 residential driveway using a Fischer 9 foot V plow. Never had to touch front ends on either. Personally I've had the best luck with my 2014 Ram Power Wagon. Over 200k with only general maintenance. And with the electric lockers, it's the best winter weenie vehicle for those like me that love driving during winter storms

I'm tempted to try Dodge for my next truck if the body rot/rust issues continue with GMC/Chevy. So frustrating to take care of a vehicle and 95% of it looks great then boom, rust and rot above the wheel wells and cab corners. Not to mention the cost has gone insane compared to other trucks, even used they are 20-30% higher than other trucks with similar mileage/specs. I have been surprised to see a lot of Nissan Titans up here. Two co-workers have and love them. 

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11 minutes ago, PowderBeard said:

I'm tempted to try Dodge for my next truck if the body rot/rust issues continue with GMC/Chevy. So frustrating to take care of a vehicle and 95% of it looks great then boom, rust and rot above the wheel wells and cab corners. Not to mention the cost has gone insane compared to other trucks, even used they are 20-30% higher than other trucks with similar mileage/specs. I have been surprised to see a lot of Nissan Titans up here. Two co-workers have and love them. 

I got a 2019 RAM 1500, 6 months ago. Low miles.  Couple buddies just got RAM as well.  I left Toyota, too pricey to fix and I always has great luck with my Jeeps. 

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I have a portable generator that I inherited brand new.  House has one of these exterior outlets to plug it into.  Breaker inside has one of those safety interlocks on it so you can't accidentally send feedback into the main line and kill a lineman.  

 

My question is:  Should my portable generator be grounded with a rod, or is the ground "covered" by plugging into my breaker panel via external outlet?  No clear answer via googles.

 

image.png.15e72e0740131e65108af1ddd0c6fb7e.pngimage.png.c9b78ade0c1f9c1c76b506a2a3ae79a3.png 

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I have a portable generator that I inherited brand new.  House has one of these exterior outlets to plug it into.  Breaker inside has one of those safety interlocks on it so you can't accidentally send feedback into the main line and kill a lineman.  
 
My question is:  Should my portable generator be grounded with a rod, or is the ground "covered" by plugging into my breaker panel via external outlet?  No clear answer via googles.
 
image.png.15e72e0740131e65108af1ddd0c6fb7e.pngimage.png.c9b78ade0c1f9c1c76b506a2a3ae79a3.png 
We have similar setup. Pretty certain it's the latter.

Sent from my SM-G981U1 using Tapatalk

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7 hours ago, tunafish said:

I have a portable generator that I inherited brand new.  House has one of these exterior outlets to plug it into.  Breaker inside has one of those safety interlocks on it so you can't accidentally send feedback into the main line and kill a lineman.  

 

My question is:  Should my portable generator be grounded with a rod, or is the ground "covered" by plugging into my breaker panel via external outlet?  No clear answer via googles.

 

image.png.15e72e0740131e65108af1ddd0c6fb7e.pngimage.png.c9b78ade0c1f9c1c76b506a2a3ae79a3.png 

I have that same setup, and my electrician didn't say anything about needing to ground the genny, and he's very "by the book" with stuff.  The genny does have a ground wire that connects the engine block to the frame, I believe.  But per the Generac site..."When connecting to an electrical panel (building electrical system, manual transfer switch, RV, etc.) you need to connect your generator to a ground rod. Ground rods must be pounded into the earth, then connected to the ground lug on the generator via a ground cable. The rod must be at least 8ft into the earth."

This the first I've heard of this.  Not sure how the hell to get a 8' rod into the ground in New England.  Good luck finding a clear 8' shot without hitting a rock.

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32 minutes ago, QCD17 said:

I have that same setup, and my electrician didn't say anything about needing to ground the genny, and he's very "by the book" with stuff.  The genny does have a ground wire that connects the engine block to the frame, I believe.  But per the Generac site..."When connecting to an electrical panel (building electrical system, manual transfer switch, RV, etc.) you need to connect your generator to a ground rod. Ground rods must be pounded into the earth, then connected to the ground lug on the generator via a ground cable. The rod must be at least 8ft into the earth."

This the first I've heard of this.  Not sure how the hell to get a 8' rod into the ground in New England.  Good luck finding a clear 8' shot without hitting a rock.

Id be lucky to get 2 feet down in my rocky, ledgy yard.

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42 minutes ago, QCD17 said:

I have that same setup, and my electrician didn't say anything about needing to ground the genny, and he's very "by the book" with stuff.  The genny does have a ground wire that connects the engine block to the frame, I believe.  But per the Generac site..."When connecting to an electrical panel (building electrical system, manual transfer switch, RV, etc.) you need to connect your generator to a ground rod. Ground rods must be pounded into the earth, then connected to the ground lug on the generator via a ground cable. The rod must be at least 8ft into the earth."

This the first I've heard of this.  Not sure how the hell to get a 8' rod into the ground in New England.  Good luck finding a clear 8' shot without hitting a rock.

I’ve never seen a single person ground a generator, never even heard of it.

Id need dynamite and an excavator to get an 8’ rod into the ground in my yard.

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1 hour ago, QCD17 said:

I have that same setup, and my electrician didn't say anything about needing to ground the genny, and he's very "by the book" with stuff.  The genny does have a ground wire that connects the engine block to the frame, I believe.  But per the Generac site..."When connecting to an electrical panel (building electrical system, manual transfer switch, RV, etc.) you need to connect your generator to a ground rod. Ground rods must be pounded into the earth, then connected to the ground lug on the generator via a ground cable. The rod must be at least 8ft into the earth."

This the first I've heard of this.  Not sure how the hell to get a 8' rod into the ground in New England.  Good luck finding a clear 8' shot without hitting a rock.

Thanks.  And likewise.   Only reason I questioned it was in reading the manual last night it mentioned grounding it with a rod 8' deep. 

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On 12/19/2022 at 2:42 PM, Lava Rock said:

Did you call the landlord?

Sent from my SM-G981U1 using Tapatalk
 

Landlord lives next door and they were also worried.  We finally got power back Monday night just after dark.  But we did figure out a solution Monday morning.  The furnace is a propane wall heater which has a electric thermostat, blower and electric ignition but the heat source is propane.  We have a Jackery 290 batter for camping and it was fully charged.  We plugged that in and got four solid hours of heating.  Brought the temp up to 58.  The jackery charges in two hours.  We had friends with power who were able to let us charge the battery.  Ultimately we did not need it but we could have charged and ran that battery 2 times a day and saved the pipes. 

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6 hours ago, DavisStraight said:

I have the same setup, you don't have to ground, that's for a different type of setup.

It's recommended... however most never do. I'm am electrician and never do on my own. Really if it's wired with a 4 conductor cable it's already bonded to your electrical system. Well, and wired properly. SOO many portables aren't

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1 hour ago, UnitedWx said:

It's recommended... however most never do. I'm am electrician and never do on my own. Really if it's wired with a 4 conductor cable it's already bonded to your electrical system. Well, and wired properly. SOO many portables aren't

I read into it some more and I guess it has to do with whether it's a bonded neutral or floating neutral.  My Generac XT8000E appears to be a bonded neutral, as far as I can tell.  But then it also depends on if the panel is a bonded neutral?  If they are both bonded neutral then it says you need the rod so that in the event of a faulty appliance, the power isn't sent back to the genny, making the frame live. If both are neutral bonded, you also have the risk of parallel power, where the fault from an appliance goes back to the neutral and ground on the panel but then also back to the neutral/ground on genny, and the ground isn't meant to handle continues power, so it could cause wire failure.  But I'm hoping our electrician set up the transfer switch to separate the neutral/ground bond when it's being fed by the genny.  Here is the article I found that really spelled it out nicely.  https://homebatterybank.com/do-i-need-to-ground-a-generator-simply-explained/

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