Damage In Tolland Posted March 28, 2014 Share Posted March 28, 2014 As the page has turned from winter to cold spring , and with no more snow outside of chairlifts and mountain tops.. It's time to start thinking about your lawn and landscape. Too early to apply any fert as of Morch 27th, but you can certainly get out there and blow some leaves out of flower beds, pick up debris and limbs that blew down over the winter and maybe even fire up the mowers and tractors and think about tuning them up. Hopefully the 4-5 inches of rain upcoming this weekend doesn't cause too much soil erosion on still frozen ground. Heavy heavy grass . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cold Miser Posted March 28, 2014 Share Posted March 28, 2014 ...Passive aggressive anger FTL. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CoastalWx Posted March 28, 2014 Share Posted March 28, 2014 Why would you want the middle number 0? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Damage In Tolland Posted March 28, 2014 Author Share Posted March 28, 2014 Why would you want the middle number 0?Because you want different release rates and the next step Dimension is much higher in the middle number. And there's only 3-4 weeks between those applications. Which leads to: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CoastalWx Posted March 28, 2014 Share Posted March 28, 2014 I have to kill rabbits this year. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MainePhotog Posted March 28, 2014 Share Posted March 28, 2014 I have to kill rabbits this year. Hasenpfeffer, good stuff! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lava Rock Posted March 28, 2014 Share Posted March 28, 2014 I've got to bust out the herbicide this year before the grass greens up. Had tons of crabgrass last year with our newly seeded lawn. I applied some last Fall and it seems to work well, but gotta get the roots before they vegetate. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
S&P Posted March 28, 2014 Share Posted March 28, 2014 responding to the lime question from the old thread. my understanding is you can lime anytime,, even around a feeding. i would ask if you have had a soil test. if your PH is greater than 6.5 then you don't really need it. if it less then yes lime and your application rate will be a function of how much less. getting your Ph to 6.5 and above will allow for max fertilizer efficiency Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
South Shore Slop Posted March 28, 2014 Share Posted March 28, 2014 I've got to bust out the herbicide this year before the grass greens up. Had tons of crabgrass last year with our newly seeded lawn. I applied some last Fall and it seems to work well, but gotta get the roots before they vegetate. Crabgrass in an annual weed. You need to apply a preemergent herbicide in late spring when the soil warms up to 50-60 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grinch1989 Posted March 28, 2014 Share Posted March 28, 2014 responding to the lime question from the old thread. my understanding is you can lime anytime,, even around a feeding. i would ask if you have had a soil test. if your PH is greater than 6.5 then you don't really need it. if it less then yes lime and your application rate will be a function of how much less. getting your Ph to 6.5 and above will allow for max fertilizer efficiency I've never tested it...I guess I always assumed it was acidic around these parts. Anyone test their own soil?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grinch1989 Posted March 28, 2014 Share Posted March 28, 2014 Crabgrass in an annual weed. You need to apply a preemergent herbicide in late spring when the soil warms up to 50-60 Yup, its a fresh start. I had the same issue with heavy heavy crab in my newly seeded area too last summer, but overseeded in the fall, so it should finally start to look decent this spring... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TauntonBlizzard2013 Posted March 28, 2014 Share Posted March 28, 2014 Has anyone had their yard hydro seeded? We are considering tearing up a good chunk of area in our yard that has been messed up and never really fixed over the years. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amarshall Posted March 28, 2014 Share Posted March 28, 2014 Has anyone had their yard hydro seeded? We are considering tearing up a good chunk of area in our yard that has been messed up and never really fixed over the years. Hydroweed. Unless you've got irrigation and water the living sh1t out of it, I've never had a good experience. 2013 was a new house and basically tried to maintain the previous owners lawn. Learned the hard way that they never treated for grubs even though I was told they did. At the end of last year, I aerated the piss out of it and in turning off the irrigation discovered I had a busted pipe. The new sections of the lawn the previous owner did, used awful construction soil so I have drainage issues in two sections of lawn. Late spring My big battle is Japanese Knotwood. You can thank the town of Duxbury for giving out free soil and mulch infested with the stuff. It grows 10 ft high and is near impossible to kill except with 50% glyphosphate. Get it on your hands and you can watch the tumor grow. I have a 1/2 acre of this stuff. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
S&P Posted March 28, 2014 Share Posted March 28, 2014 Has anyone had their yard hydro seeded? We are considering tearing up a good chunk of area in our yard that has been messed up and never really fixed over the years. last fall, i had a septic repair done ,so i had to re-seed about a 1/3 of my yard where the work was done. my contractor was a friend and i told him i didn't want the hydro seed, that i wanted to put my own seed down. he said no problem, i'll just put your seed in the mix and spray it. there were some weeds, but they were minimal. Bottom line , its the seed some contractors use that has the weeds, not the cellulose material itself. so if you can find someone that will let you buy your own high quality seed (i wouldn't think this is not a problem since your paying for the seed out of your own pocket) and put it in the mix, i would recommend going with the hydro seed method as it will establish quicker. My experience the - the seed emerged in the cellulose in 6-8 days - Its easier to keep it watered as the cellulose material holds the water better and it's applied wet. the lawn then roots in the ground as it matures. i sprayed my lawn Sept 20th last fall and cut it several times before the end of the season last year. Ended up using 75 lbs to cover about 4000-5000 sq ft. they can tell you how much to buy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
S&P Posted March 28, 2014 Share Posted March 28, 2014 I've never tested it...I guess I always assumed it was acidic around these parts. Anyone test their own soil?? around here john deere landscapes will do it for $20 https://www.johndeerelandscapes.com/home/locations.aspx Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baroclinic Zone Posted March 28, 2014 Share Posted March 28, 2014 I've never tested it...I guess I always assumed it was acidic around these parts. Anyone test their own soil?? You can also check to see if UConn does any soil testing. I know UMass does. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Whineminster Posted March 29, 2014 Share Posted March 29, 2014 Ok guys lets not go crazy...no wonder long island sound has algae blooms and nitrogen loading problems Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Allenson Posted March 29, 2014 Share Posted March 29, 2014 31" of snow otg. Gonna be a while. Ok guys lets not go crazy...no wonder long island sound has algae blooms and nitrogen loading problems Yeah, I'll never understand the crazy amounts of time, energy and resourses people pour into their lawns. I mean, I mow certainly and it's nice to have an open area around the house but I've never onced fertilized, limed, watered or treated ours in any way other than driving around on the tractor mowing with a cold one in the cup holder. Our soil is very sweet and fertile though with a natural pH of around 6.5 or higher. So in that sense, it doesn't need much in the way of additives. Each to their own, I suppose... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moneypitmike Posted March 29, 2014 Share Posted March 29, 2014 As the page has turned from winter to cold spring , and with no more snow outside of chairlifts and mountain tops.. It's time to start thinking about your lawn and landscape. Too early to apply any fert as of Morch 27th, but you can certainly get out there and blow some leaves out of flower beds, pick up debris and limbs that blew down over the winter and maybe even fire up the mowers and tractors and think about tuning them up. Hopefully the 4-5 inches of rain upcoming this weekend doesn't cause too much soil erosion on still frozen ground. Heavy heavy grass . I better wait for the snow to melt first. While I'm waiting, I'll take down another tree or two before the torrents come in later. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Whineminster Posted March 29, 2014 Share Posted March 29, 2014 31" of snow otg. Gonna be a while. Yeah, I'll never understand the crazy amounts of time, energy and resourses people pour into their lawns. I mean, I mow certainly and it's nice to have an open area around the house but I've never onced fertilized, limed, watered or treated ours in any way other than driving around on the tractor mowing with a cold one in the cup holder. Our soil is very sweet and fertile though with a natural pH of around 6.5 or higher. So in that sense, it doesn't need much in the way of additives. Each to their own, I suppose... yup that's exactly what I do, my lawn is some weird sort of meadow grass that I only need to mow 4 times a year, its awesome. Like you said, its expensive too. But it's a hobby for some people so I'm not gong to stop them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Allenson Posted March 30, 2014 Share Posted March 30, 2014 yup that's exactly what I do, my lawn is some weird sort of meadow grass that I only need to mow 4 times a year, its awesome. Like you said, its expensive too. But it's a hobby for some people so I'm not gong to stop them. Wow, 4 times a year is great. I do mow about once every 7-10 days depending on rain & general weather but that's it. We have no neighbors here to impress. Now gardening is another story. With an edible outcome, we're much more willing to put time and energy into things. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moneypitmike Posted March 30, 2014 Share Posted March 30, 2014 Wow, 4 times a year is great. I do mow about once every 7-10 days depending on rain & general weather but that's it. We have no neighbors here to impress. Now gardening is another story. With an edible outcome, we're much more willing to put time and energy into things. I mow every weekend, if not it can't happen until every other weekend resulting in 1) more mosquitoes, 2) taller knotweed (ftl). Unfortuanltey, it takes about 4 hours to do the whole thing it takes up a good chunk of the weekend. At least I don't bother with the clippings. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CoastalWx Posted March 30, 2014 Share Posted March 30, 2014 Ticks are out even in snow pack regions of SNH. My friend at work had a bunch on his pants even with snow still on the ground in areas. Unbelievable. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Whineminster Posted March 31, 2014 Share Posted March 31, 2014 I mow every weekend, if not it can't happen until every other weekend resulting in 1) more mosquitoes, 2) taller knotweed (ftl). Unfortuanltey, it takes about 4 hours to do the whole thing it takes up a good chunk of the weekend. At least I don't bother with the clippings. Man these plant species from the Asian subcontinent take over so fast...Eurasian water milfoil, Japanese knotweed, oriental bittersweet, Asian long horned beetle... So do you just cut the knotweed down so often that it don't have time to take over your lawn? I have some of that low ground creeping raspberry type bush taking over my lawn, stuff is terrible. 4 hours? sounds like you need a lawn tractor! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amarshall Posted March 31, 2014 Share Posted March 31, 2014 Man these plant species from the Asian subcontinent take over so fast...Eurasian water milfoil, Japanese knotweed, oriental bittersweet, Asian long horned beetle... So do you just cut the knotweed down so often that it don't have time to take over your lawn? I have some of that low ground creeping raspberry type bush taking over my lawn, stuff is terrible. 4 hours? sounds like you need a lawn tractor! The only way to truly kill knotweed is to blast it with high % glyophosphate at the stem after you've cut off the stalk. Some people inject the stems. Knotweed is so bad that if you pull it out at the roots it gets worse. It doubles. They make a few other more specialized chemicals that are not available in the northeast. In England its such a big problem they have more specialized chemicals. http://www.pitchcare.com/shop/professional-weed-killers-for-japanese-knotweed/tordon-22k-herbicide-5l.html Here's a popular one that can't be shipped to Mass. http://www.domyownpestcontrol.com/battleship-iii-herbicide-25-gallon-p-1502.html The Duxbury town dump takes all of the brush from the recycle pile and makes their own free mulch for residents. Unfortunately the mulch is full of knotweed roots. So there's a sick cycle of people taking home knotweed full mulch, getting a problem in their yard and then cutting it down and taking it back to the dump. The whole town of Duxbury is full of it. I noticed most of the 3A corridor on roadways has it around here. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Whineminster Posted March 31, 2014 Share Posted March 31, 2014 The only way to truly kill knotweed is to blast it with high % glyophosphate at the stem after you've cut off the stalk. Some people inject the stems. Knotweed is so bad that if you pull it out at the roots it gets worse. It doubles. They make a few other more specialized chemicals that are not available in the northeast. In England its such a big problem they have more specialized chemicals. http://www.pitchcare.com/shop/professional-weed-killers-for-japanese-knotweed/tordon-22k-herbicide-5l.html Here's a popular one that can't be shipped to Mass. http://www.domyownpestcontrol.com/battleship-iii-herbicide-25-gallon-p-1502.html The Duxbury town dump takes all of the brush from the recycle pile and makes their own free mulch for residents. Unfortunately the mulch is full of knotweed roots. So there's a sick cycle of people taking home knotweed full mulch, getting a problem in their yard and then cutting it down and taking it back to the dump. The whole town of Duxbury is full of it. I noticed most of the 3A corridor on roadways has it around here. wow that's messed up. Yeah its amazing how fast it grows, cut it down it grows back in like a week haha. I guess it provides good slope stabilization....one benefit. glyophosphate is that round up? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amarshall Posted March 31, 2014 Share Posted March 31, 2014 Yeah roundup but in concentrated form Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CoastalWx Posted April 1, 2014 Share Posted April 1, 2014 The moss sucks this year. I just spring raked my back yard for 4 hrs trying to get it out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Damage In Tolland Posted April 1, 2014 Author Share Posted April 1, 2014 The moss sucks this year. I just spring raked my back yard for 4 hrs trying to get it out. Put down lime..Sounds like you have a lot of shade and moss likes acidic soil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CoastalWx Posted April 1, 2014 Share Posted April 1, 2014 Put down lime..Sounds like you have a lot of shade and moss likes acidic soil It's mostly from a spruce with shade and acid so probably right. I hear people telling me calcium is better than lime. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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