backedgeapproaching

Whoa, either that was an epic disease/ drought etc that wiped it out or their wasnt any "real" grass there to begin with. Mid OCT should be very green. Was that a newly seeded area or more established?

Pretty efficient small droplet rain...interesting to look at the Wundeground estimate and it has my area in SVT at less than .1" While my status is at about .80" so far. Normally its in the ballpark at least, but some weak dbz echos producing some decent totals.

I was out working in the yard Sunday and acorns were dive bombing in the woods..nonstop all day. I had layover at BWI yesterday and flying in every lawn looked like Lava's..looked like it hadn't rained in months.

Well, I recall a post or two today about a never ending death ridge...keep those blades sharp Seriously though, if your lawn has more crabgrass than actual grass, then this frost will certainly help with no mowing, frost kills all crabgrass. If your yard is mostly grass, and not weeds, you will be still be mowing.

At this point, I would agree and say scrap the grass idea for that area. Rock gardens, perennials beds, conifers etc. It does look like a pretty big area, so probably a big project.

I honestly don't know how there isn't one spec of green in there..not even a little weed of anything, or some new grass tillering after recent rains. Your soil test doesn't seem that bad, is it perfect soil, no. But you should be able to grow a decent lawn even with how it is. Low pH and Low Organic Matter, but that wouldn't strictly result in what you are seeing. I did a soil test a few weeks ago, and have some major deficiencies, yet grass is thick and green. If you are going to overseed, do it soon like Gene said. Oct is definitely pretty late for you location for seeding. If your established grass does bounce back, make sure to hit it with few Fall fertilizer apps.

That's insane man, I was actually thinking of posting in here to see if your lawn rebounded with some rain, lowering sun angle and longer/cooler nights. That looks like mid July in KS/OK/TX after 95-100F for a weeks on end. Not sure even what to say..hopefully it comes around in the next few weeks.

I remember you posting about that..guess some pathogen in the soil is there waiting for the right conditions to show up. That's a pretty big section taken out.

If the crabgrass plants are really mature, then the post emergent may not totally kill them. May stunt them and discolor, but not totally kill. I guess you will find out in a few days. Is there any grass there? I know its an evil word and don't shoot the messenger-- but probably RoundUp/Glyphosate would have been a better option IF its only crabgrass. You were putting down chemicals anyway. Also, reed the bottle on whatever you already put down, sometimes there is a waiting period on reseeding.

You don't necessarily need to remove it...if you kill it and then scalp it down pretty much low as possible it can make a good seed bed to hold the seed in. If its soooo thick that you need to remove it, then maybe you should. Those crabgrass roots get thick and dense...try to pull one plant out and see how much soil comes up with the roots, it will be a good amount.

How quick do those plugs spread in a season? He is going to need A LOT of plugs to get any type of coverage. I know nothing about Zoysia, but at this point for Lava, I wouldn't eliminate anything. Seems like something low input is needed there.

Heavy lawns here in SVT for early AUG. Just enough rains to keep most lawns around here green all summer so far. Guess the nonstop, relentless dews have helped retain moisture Sorry Lava....your pics in the other thread look bad..not sure what the heck is going on over there on that moonscape.

I moved back to the East Coast in April '09, i moved into a townhouse in the the farmlands of SEPA with a pool in the complex--full sun. I just remember the pool was freezing even into August. Pool temps of yore.

In July, a lawn that is green is a win. Never going to have the same color as green up in April/May

Planted these last fall and no issues at all blooming this summer

Nice article--pretty much sums it up. With Hydrangeas that bloom on new wood, you will never have any blooming issues--with those new wood versions they always have great blooms here even though it routinely gets down to -20F to-25F. Annabelle, Incrediball, Limelight are a few(not a hydrangea expert, sure there are many more varieties) that will always bloom reliably with no fear of winter die back. You probably have some variety that blooms on old wood--depending on snow cover, temps, etc I guess could affect next years blooms. My in laws have some old wood blooming hydrangeas(no idea what cultivar)--I've never seen them bloom once in 10+ years here in VT

Whoa, never seen that before...one upping the the red mulchers.

Lava Rock just did a swan dive from his roof into Sebago lake........ That is really good coverage for 8 days.

I always use to do the died black mulch for years, I stopped recently just because I feel like it fades pretty quickly. Looks good though.

Just did a fresh cut and also noticing a bunch red thread patches that were hiding under the longer grass since it has been about a week since last mow.

Mike--you need to wait until your newly seeded area is more established before pre-emerg. Suppose to wait until it matures a bit--meaning those little stringy grass blades get 3 or 4 tillers. Pre-emerg target small immature plants, including grass. They dont actually stop stuff for germinating, but attack them when they are young and small. There is one product at big box stores that Scott's sells that you can use that provides pre emerg and work kill grass seed. It's a starter fert with mesotrione as the active ingredient

Pics of the lawn? Also, pic of the lesco grass seed label?

As Gene said, before I moved to VT I noticed a lot of Bamboo in SE PA. Looked to be getting out of control in spots. Definitely pretty invasive down there.

I'm more of a mulch guy, but that does look pretty good.

Yea, didn't realize some states banned it. I mean it makes sense, there is no need to apply it unless you soil is deficient or your starting a new lawn from scratch. And if you have a soil test that proves your low in P, then you can use it, even in the banned states.