LongBeachSurfFreak

Riiiiiiiggghhhhhtttttt The storm signal is there

Came in to some damage on campus, one pear tree down and multiple temporary tents thrown and destroyed. Winds had to have been at least 50mph locally

I noticed that driving last night. Basically heavy drizzle. I’ll take it. Anything that adds moisture to the upper soil level is a good thing until we get some real rain this week.

I was lucky to surf the largest East coast waves I have ever ridden yesterday thanks to Teddy. Solid 15-18’ faces at a rock reef in Montauk NY. Teddy has been a prolific swell producer and illustrator of why fetch matters more then maximum wind speed. As teddy’s max wind speeds decreased its enlarging wind field was more able to impart energy into the ocean.

Here’s a shot of the beach washovers well out in Advance of the main swell from teddy from yesterday. Today’s higher tides on Long Island in concert with significantly larger swells should lead to even more significant damage

Major over wash occurring on Long Island already. Jones beach flooded time the board walk this morning, with the biggest waves and highest tides tomorrow there could be significant erosion and damage. Here’s a shot of my truck while I surfed this morning before the tide came in.

The larger eye will actually aid in increasing seas and swell production. The larger area of maximum winds increases fetch. A memorable swell event is heading for the east coast

It’s going to be a hell of allot more impactful then you think. Major beach erosion producer which will likely throw many multimillion dollar beach homes in the ocean.

Given the right conditions you could easily see a Patricia type storm there. I wonder what the upper bounds are for intensity and pressure, sub 850 220mph?

This is going to be one of the most prolific swell producers for the East coast in a long time. Lots of captured fetch as this heads on a course towards the NW. Captured fetch can create some of the highest seas observed on the planet. And that’s all aimed at the east coast. There will be major washovers and beach erosion regardless of the offshore track. Long period swells are extremely energetic and can cause lots of wave run up.

Long period swells from Patrica worked their magic and caused washovers and erosion. Long period swells (over 12 seconds) are extremely energetic and surge up and over the beach. I had the pleasure of riding those swells last night and it was a memorable session at Gilgo beach.

Teddy is going to be a prolific wave producer for the entire East coast. Before calling this guy a fish storm remember rip currents kill. Teddy will also produce very long period swells by East coast standards. Swells with periods over 14 seconds are extremely energetic and can produce beach erosion and wash overs.

4.59” wantagh meso. Lots of flooding at Jones beach where I am currently

That’s what good construction can do. That house would be a goner otherwise. Any idea where this is exactly?

East coast surfers rejoice!