S&P

.08 yesterday, .04 sat. 

12 hours ago, USCAPEWEATHERAF said:

My novel has been accepted for publishing

congrats

ended up with .96" at a loocal backyard station in portsmouth RI good drink and needed

23 hours ago, Damage In Tolland said:

It’s step 2 Weed and Feed time for Lesco. Right around Mem Day weekend every year it goes down 

fortunately i don't have to deal with weeds , so i do a second app of dimension, then wait 5 weeks and merit.

15 hours ago, Brewbeer said:

So, anyone planning a second fertilizer application?

did it last weekend before the rain

2 hours ago, dendrite said:

Speaking of aerating...

I’m not concerned about weeds in the yard, but I do have some frequently walked on parts of the lawn around the run that are starting to see the grass struggle. I know core aerators are best, but do the spikes work at all? I thought about getting a decent pair of aerating shoes off of Amazon just to loosen the soil a bit around there. I’m not expecting miracles, but if they will make even a 25% improvement I’d be interested. 

something is better than nothing , so yes

15 hours ago, Baroclinic Zone said:

It certainly depends upon ones location.  If you live in a rural area that's not populated by manicured lawns, its much easier to let the lawn be what it wants to be.  Once get get into the more established cities/towns it's much harder and you sort of go with the flow since you don't want to be the odd man out.  I certainly don't like douse my lawn in chemicals but I do like it to be relatively green/healthy.  Some weeds are acceptable but a lawn dominated by weeds is not.

you have it exactly right on location. for me at least, since i am will be putting my house on the market soon, having a lawn that isn't a lawn but a field will hurt its market value. i've put a lot of time and effort into the home inside and out to maximize the market value when i do sell. i don't know home markets in other spots, but down here, curb appeal plays into market value and if my house has a lousy lawn and someone else has a nice lawn, well... And i do enjoy spending the time to takes to make all my lanscaping look nice.

On 5/3/2018 at 7:00 PM, RUNNAWAYICEBERG said:

I think I will let this growing season play out as is, not waste more money on this turrable lawn....and in the fall, sod cut it and redo the whole thing right with either sod or topsoil with prestine seeding. 

Putting bandaids on a bleeing jugular won’t heal it. Need to operate.

one thing you should consider now, is testing your soil for ph and lime (if needed) to get it ready for fall. you won't get the full effect of your fert if ph isn't right. check around there is probably a garden club or university affiliated outreach program that will do it for free.

On 4/27/2018 at 12:58 PM, Lava Rock said:

what's the best way to gauge fert application with a rotary spreader? I've used a small Scotts rotary for years, but I don't use Scotts fert, so the dial # is meaningless for other types of fert. I picked up some Lescos today and will spread tonight. One bag covers 11,000sqft. I know my yard's dimensions and can get a general sense of how far one bag will go, but have no idea on the rotary dial #. Halfway open, 1/4, 1/3???? In the past, I've just winged it and hoped I didn't run out or put too much down for the given area.

If you’re still looking Here is a conversion sheet , use the Lesco spreader as the baseline and then find your zone / rate on the bag. 

19 hours ago, IrishRob17 said:

I assume you mean the window on crabgrass preventer.  Crabgrass seeds need at least three consecutive nights of soil temps of at least 50 degrees.  Even with those conditions there is no guarantee that they will germinate but they certainly can so I work under that assumption that they will once the soil gets to those temps.  The soil temps down here in the Hudson Valley are still in the low 40's so I still haven't put anything down yet.  Now someone smarter can correct me but the only harm I'm aware of in putting it down too early is it loses its effectiveness before the crabgrass growing season is over.  For example, I think that the Lesco with Dimension is effective for preventing crabgrass for about three to four months depending on rainfall and if the ground is disturbed.  In my case, if I can get fours months of protection and apply it now that gets me into the middle of August, crabgrass can certainly still germinate around here in the middle of August.  So the later that I can apply in the spring the better off I am.  Some people will do a second application of Lesco with Dimension later in the spring or even summer so they extend the effectiveness but personally I do not like using that much fertilizer.        

this, the local Site One guys recommend it as part of their season long schedule, so i'll put another down in May. have done this for a few years and never have a problem with crab grass while my neighbors lawn's are full of it. Of course they sell more this way.Forsynthia's in full bloom here.

16 hours ago, Damage In Tolland said:

Lesco starter fert and dimension dropped today prior to icestorm and cold rains Monday 

dropped dimension w/ fert yesterday, did a first cut as well, although wasn't necessary

yesterday turned out nice, warm in the sun, worked outdoors in shorts, not shirt, we tan, whats the call for today?