Lawn/Garden/Golf Thread
Started By
tombo82685
, 3 Feb 2011 07:35 PM
#1
Posted 3 February 2011 - 07:35 PM
Discuss golfing, lawns, and gardening in this thread.
#2
Posted 3 February 2011 - 07:45 PM
The bushes around my yard and house are going to need some major TLC come Spring time. Last winter and especially this winter has taken a toll on them.
#3
Posted 3 February 2011 - 07:49 PM
The bushes around my yard and house are going to need some major TLC come Spring time. Last winter and especially this winter has taken a toll on them.
yea, my cypresses have been transformed. At work the arbiviates are bent to like a 60 degree angle from the snow.
#4
Posted 3 February 2011 - 07:51 PM
yea, my cypresses have been transformed. At work the arbiviates are bent to like a 60 degree angle from the snow.
I have a long row of arbiviates along one side of my property and the last storm turned them into a disaster. They were dug out of the snow but they are rather deformed at the moment. I noticed two branches were snapped.
#5
Posted 3 February 2011 - 07:53 PM
I have a long row of arbiviates along one side of my property and the last storm turned them into a disaster. They were dug out of the snow but they are rather deformed at the moment. I noticed two branches were snapped.
Yea the arbs, cypresses, and boxwoods get hammered in this weather....eastern white pines get destroyed in ice storms.
#6
Posted 3 February 2011 - 07:55 PM
Tom you and I have talked about this a few times. i have Ornimental Grass growing in my yard. I am looking to remove some of them. Do you know how far i would have to dig and all to remove some of them?
#7
Posted 3 February 2011 - 07:59 PM
Tom you and I have talked about this a few times. i have Ornimental Grass growing in my yard. I am looking to remove some of them. Do you know how far i would have to dig and all to remove some of them?
just get the root-ball lee. Shouldn't be more than a foot down.
#8
Posted 3 February 2011 - 08:00 PM
just get the root-ball lee. Shouldn't be more than a foot down.
Ok thank you, i didnt know it would be a root-ball, i thought it was more than that, but if its a root-ball how hard would it be to yank it out?
#9
Posted 3 February 2011 - 08:02 PM
Ok thank you, i didnt know it would be a root-ball, i thought it was more than that, but if its a root-ball how hard would it be to yank it out?
Yank out with your hands? or digging?
#10
Posted 3 February 2011 - 09:02 PM
Still have snow cover 
Last year after the snow melted out front I found mole tracks all over the place
Last year after the snow melted out front I found mole tracks all over the place
#11
Posted 3 February 2011 - 09:07 PM
Still have snow cover
Last year after the snow melted out front I found Vole tracks all over the place
fixed lol
#12
Posted 3 February 2011 - 09:15 PM
fixed lol
Vole? I never heard of a vole until I just looked it up
#13
Posted 3 February 2011 - 09:16 PM
Vole? I never heard of a vole until I just looked it up
yea, they are the ones that have the above ground tunnels. They are the more damaging of the two to lawns. They are a vegatative rodent going after the grassblades and roots while moles are carnivorous, but there tunnels underground cause issues.
#14
Posted 3 February 2011 - 09:20 PM
Nothing my cats can not solve. Cats love to catch voles. By the way, did you know that a vole bite is poisonous to a human?yea, they are the ones that have the above ground tunnels. They are the more damaging of the two to lawns. They are a vegatative rodent going after the grassblades and roots while moles are carnivorous, but there tunnels underground cause issues.
#15
Posted 3 February 2011 - 09:21 PM
So what's Tony planning for his vegetable garden this year? Hopefully it involves pepperoni.
#16
Posted 3 February 2011 - 09:24 PM
Nothing my cats can not solve. Cats love to catch voles. By the way, did you know that a vole bite is poisonous to a human?
no, i didnt... I have only seen a vole once in my life lol.
#17
Posted 3 February 2011 - 09:25 PM
yea, they are the ones that have the above ground tunnels. They are the more damaging of the two to lawns. They are a vegatative rodent going after the grassblades and roots while moles are carnivorous, but there tunnels underground cause issues.
I had big snow cover in Feb. and once it all melted in March I saw the tracks... so they can survive under deep snow pack? I didn't see holes in the snow.
#18
Posted 3 February 2011 - 09:25 PM
I had big snow cover in Feb. and once it all melted in March I saw the tracks... so they can survive under deep snow pack? I didn't see holes in the snow.
yea they live in the ground and come up to the surface to feed i believe.
#19
Posted 3 February 2011 - 09:28 PM
yea they live in the ground and come up to the surface to feed i believe.
interesting... thanks for the info tom.
#20
Posted 3 February 2011 - 09:30 PM
yea, they are the ones that have the above ground tunnels. They are the more damaging of the two to lawns. They are a vegatative rodent going after the grassblades and roots while moles are carnivorous, but there tunnels underground cause issues.
Sounds like a party for them.
#21
Posted 3 February 2011 - 10:08 PM
Last spring the daffodils were in bloom by late March, tulips by early April. Just think, possibly only 2 months from now! I planted a sack of daddodil bulbs this past fall in one part of my yard, can't wait to see them this spring!
#22
Posted 4 February 2011 - 02:25 PM
Last spring the daffodils were in bloom by late March, tulips by early April. Just think, possibly only 2 months from now! I planted a sack of daddodil bulbs this past fall in one part of my yard, can't wait to see them this spring!
we are "scheduled" to aerify in 6 weeks
#23
Posted 4 February 2011 - 02:46 PM
we are "scheduled" to aerify in 6 weeks
You never know........the way last winter was going I didn't expect the snow the shut off and the temps. to rise like they did so quickly. I'd take that again honestly....it can stop snowing at the end of February.
#24
Posted 4 February 2011 - 02:48 PM
You never know........the way last winter was going I didn't expect the snow the shut off and the temps. to rise like they did so quickly. I'd take that again honestly....it can stop snowing at the end of February.
i agree, once past presidents day im done with snow.
#25
Posted 4 February 2011 - 02:49 PM
we are "scheduled" to aerify in 6 weeks
as are we...if the snow isnt off the greens by march we may have to shovel it off.
#26
Posted 4 February 2011 - 06:05 PM
as are we...if the snow isnt off the greens by march we may have to shovel it off.
I'm back to golfing for snow, Renault is open, pretty tough after a 5 week layoff, so give me a generous score for Thursday.
#27
Posted 4 February 2011 - 06:53 PM
Tom,
Once this glacier melts, I'm guessing that would be a good time to winter seed the lawns?
Once this glacier melts, I'm guessing that would be a good time to winter seed the lawns?
#28
Posted 4 February 2011 - 07:06 PM
Tom,
Once this glacier melts, I'm guessing that would be a good time to winter seed the lawns?
yea try it in early march, let me know what happens. Make sure you put double the seeding rate cause your germination percentage is going to be lower.
#29
Posted 4 February 2011 - 07:52 PM
yea try it in early march, let me know what happens. Make sure you put double the seeding rate cause your germination percentage is going to be lower.
I assume this is the same terminology as overseeding? I did one-half of my lawn in the fall with good results before the cold weather really hit. The other half is planned to be tackled in the early Spring; dethatching, aeration, overseeding (seed and soil), then lots of water. I don't think I've seen my lawn since December. I would like one more footer+, then bring on the warmer temps and outdoor work season.
#30
Posted 4 February 2011 - 07:53 PM
I assume this is the same terminology as overseeding? I did one-half of my lawn in the fall with good results before the cold weather really hit. The other half is planned to be tackled in the early Spring; dethatching, aeration, overseeding (seed and soil), then lots of water. I don't think I've seen my lawn since December. I would like one more footer+, then bring on the warmer temps and outdoor work season.
Doing frost seeding you want to put down even more seed because the germination rate is a lot lower. The best time to seed is in fall. Warmer soil temps, less competition with weeds, and it gives the new germinating grass longer to establish unlike spring which can transition into summer very quickly. If you are seeding you can't put down pre emerge you know that correct?
#31
Posted 4 February 2011 - 07:57 PM
The best time to seed is in fall. Warmer soil temps, less competition with weeds, and it gives the new germinating grass longer to establish unlike spring which can transition into summer very quickly. If you are seeding you can't put down pre emerge you know that correct?
Yes I know, but it took so many hours to just do the one side, I did not have time to do it all in the fall. I will prob do the pre-emerg on the already completed side in early spring while overseeding the other side. Then, when do you think the earliest I can apply fertilizer (other than starter) to the newly overseeded side? May have to wait until summer. Tough call.
#32
Posted 4 February 2011 - 08:00 PM
Yes I know, but it took so many hours to just do the one side, I did not have time to do it all in the fall. I will prob do the pre-emerg on the already completed side in early spring while overseeding the other side. Then, when do you think the earliest I can apply fertilizer (other than starter) to the newly overseeded side? May have to wait until summer. Tough call.
you can apply fertilizer as soon as the blades get an inch or so tall. Once they get that tall you need fertilizer for them to survive because they have no source of food. Just don't overfeed them. Maybe go like .25 lbs per 1000 at first.
#33
Posted 5 February 2011 - 01:35 AM
I assume this is the same terminology as overseeding? I did one-half of my lawn in the fall with good results before the cold weather really hit. The other half is planned to be tackled in the early Spring; dethatching, aeration, overseeding (seed and soil), then lots of water. I don't think I've seen my lawn since December. I would like one more footer+, then bring on the warmer temps and outdoor work season.
you will be fighting weeds all year long, your root system will not be established by summer
best to do it in the fall, which it sounds like was not possible in your case.
#34
Posted 5 February 2011 - 08:09 AM
you will be fighting weeds all year long, your root system will not be established by summer
best to do it in the fall, which it sounds like was not possible in your case.
Well, it is either wait until next fall for that side, or deal with the weeds. That side is in bad shape anyway right now. The one part of it is a moderate slope and is very bare in spots. A retaining wall was re-built when I bought the home in 10/09, so the crappy landscapers (so they called themselves), did a poor job reseeding the grass area they tracked over to fix the wall. Basically, except right along the street, this portion of the lawn is mostly all on a slope. So it is either wait until fall or get a head start and deal with weeds, which are already prevalent anyway. I plan on being in this home for at least 5 more years so whatever I do will look better than before. The big question is...will I be able to get rid of the weeds eventually even if I deal with them this summer.
#35
Posted 5 February 2011 - 09:51 AM
I'm back to golfing for snow, Renault is open, pretty tough after a 5 week layoff, so give me a generous score for Thursday.
Alright, ill give you a score on monday. When did you plan on playing?
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